Chrishell French Bulldogs

The French bulldog is not for everyone. The requirement you need to be more intelligent than your Frenchie precludes ownership for some people, as does the inability to spend reasonable amounts of time with them. They crave companionship and if you cannot provide it, then a Frenchie is not for you. Then of course there is the purchase price which can make owning one financially prohibitive, as can on going care which may be necessary. A clown in a philosopher's cloak aptly describes temperament and personality.

A Frenchie is not a necessity, it's a luxury. A Jewel that is priceless, but often more appreciated by the connoisseur. However The French bulldog is a companion dog of the highest order and once a Frenchie has become part of your life, then no other breed will suffice. A Frenchie is The Clown Jewel of the dog world. 

 

 

ORIGINS AND HISTORY OF THE FRENCH BULLDOG

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

Numerous theories have been put forward over the years as to how the French bulldog came into being. Many were fanciful & dispelled before they became seriously accepted.

They were not as some claimed, an indigenous French breed, nor were they the descendent of the massive Spanish Bulldog. The Spanish Bulldog was used to infuse size & substance in the English Bulldog, not a requirement for the diminutive French & small they were. Some being in the region of 10lb. Fortunately, being a recent breed, interviews with persons associated with Frenchies, practically over the entire period of their known existence, were able to be undertaken & this research, by multiple parties, confirmed the Frenchie as a descendent of the English TOY Bulldog.

1860 Bulldog

1860 BULLDOG

What has to be remembered, is that the English Bulldog of the day, bore little resemblance to what we now associate & accept as that breed. In fact the French Bulldog bears a greater similarity, to what was originally deemed to be the English Bulldog of the 1800s.

That the Lace workers of Nottingham took their Toy Bulldogs to Normandy, France, is an historical fact. Without any breed club to watch over them & many Toy Bulldogs being pets without papers, breeding was not accurately recorded & without doubt not all matings were to other toy Bulldogs. These were the origins of the French Bulldog. Initially based on chance, little interest being shown towards them by the French, with no person from that country coming forward with knowledge of that formative period.

They did not become popular until the " Coquette " went crazy over them. With this notoriety it then became daring & risqué for fashionable ladies to have them as companions. Visitors from America were attracted to this totally different little dog & they must be credited for developing & fixing a lot of the characteristics we today associate with being a typical French Bulldog. While the English tried to use imported stock to rekindle the Toy English Bulldog, the Americans developed a new breed fixing traits such as the BAT EARS, which are today such a feature of the breed.

The French deserve recognition in the title of the breed because that was the country of inception.

So it can be seen that France, England & America have contributed most to the establishment of the breed. It is just unfortunate that cooperation between those countries could not establish a Universal standard for the French Bulldog.

Peculiarly distinctive features of the French Bulldog are the bat ear, which are found in no other dog. For many variations to the original toy bulldog, including the Fawn with Black mask colour, I would suggest you look towards the Pug as a contributor. 

BREED CONCERNS

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

Like any animal, French Bulldogs can be less than perfect and while every care is taken in relation to health checks of puppies and breeding stock, the odd pup can develop an unforeseen condition later in life, the most common for the breed are listed below and where possible with treatment and outcome. It must be remembered that the very condition which creates the unique format of the French bulldog, also leaves them susceptible to deficiencies that can be associated with that genetic make up.

Defective spine. Hemi vertebra, Scoliosis, Kyphosis, degenerative disc. These are the most serious conditions affecting Frenchies.

Hemi vertebra may or may not pose a problem, even if present, but when present in conjunction with a bent spine, extra stress is put on the weakened area and can lead to pain and paralysis. Degenerative disc can have the same potential outcome. In minor cases, confined rest, pain relief and anti inflammatory medications can resolve the immediate threat, but while some recover and live a full life, others succumb to the condition.

Cherry Eye. This can be due to a weakness in muscles or pressure exerted by inflammation or infection. The first thing to do is reduce (roll back) the protrusion to its correct position, immediately it occurs. Using the lower eyelid as a covering for the blown third eyelid, place thumb on lower, inner edge of eyelid and roll thumb inward with minor pressure and gently moving side to side, forward and back it can be reduced to its normal position. Confining with rest after applying anti-inflammatory eye drops often allows the eye to settle and some dogs may only have the occasional relapse during the whole of their life. Applying Visco tears will flush away any irritant and reducing the irritation allows the third eyelid to remain in place after reduction. NEVER leave the protrusion unattended or not reduced. Once achieved, confine the pup for a sleep, which will allow time for the third eyelid to settle into its correct position. I suggest you keep Visco tears on hand, as part of your first aid kit. Veterinary assistance with an anti inflammatory eye drop could be beneficial in maintaining the integrity of the third eyelid, while swelling reduces and healing takes place. Sofradex used three times daily for a week will reduce inflammation, taking away the cause Worst case scenario is when the third eyelid is not retained and therefore surgery is necessary. The quicker this is undertaken, the easier the procedure and the quicker the healing. ENSURE THE EYE IS KEPT MOIST, WHILE WAITING FOR SURGERY. A number of effective procedures are available, with no further problems occurring during the dogs lifetime, hence the condition is more annoying at the time, rather than being a serious long term condition.

N.B. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES PERMIT A SURGICAL PROCEDURE WHICH TRIMS THE THIRD EYELID. THIS IS OUTDATED AND CREATES DRY EYE THROUGHOUT THE DOGS LIFE, WHICH IS TOTALLY UNNECESSARY. If suggested. FIND ANOTHER VET!

Skin conditions. A variety of eruptions can affect Frenchies or any other dog breed for that matter. Some pups can develop Juvenile Demodetic Mange. This is transient and often is not even noticed. If observing a bald area, which appears to have little black specks where hair roots should be, a wash with an Acaricidal dog wash, such as "Ectodex" will speed recovery and prevent further areas developing.

Foot chewing can be a favourite pass time for Frenchies and can become a habit. Prevention with firm direction and treatment of any underlying condition (often fungal, similar to athlete's foot in humans) will minimise any damage. A few days treatment with an antifungal treatment and hydrocortisone will alleviate the difficulty. In severe cases Nizoral given orally will clear the condition in 5-7 days, but please be careful and use only as a last resort, as this medication can cause liver damage in susceptible animals.

A more serious condition that can develop from 8 weeks through to 8 years is a skin allergy. This drives the dog mad with continual scratching and chewing, leaving raw areas that may bleed due to being so irritating. I only encountered this after 30 years in the breed. Two puppies in a litter (a total outcross, not one common relative) developed the problem. 4 others in the same litter suffered NO EFFECTS. After biopsies and expensive investigations, multiple theories of diet, food, and dust allergies were thrown up. Some improvements where made with special diets, Omega 3 and 6 and topical hydrocortisone, however any improvements did not last and we had to go back to the drawing board. Desensitising to specific identified allergens is possible, but often not practical. A Prednisone regime (Prednil) (a combination of prednisone and anti-histamine) stopped the problem over night and it did not recur. Steroids can be dangerous and a careful administration programme MUST be worked out with your Vet. You are welcome to try other remedies which may be successful in individual cases, however in our situation this was not the case and a lot of wasted time, effort, money, and suffering was the result. Lets be clear, this was so severe, without prednisone, we were seriously considering putting the puppies down. These same dogs can also have an oily coat with a very pungent smell. This is due to bacteria build up on the skin and requires a special shampoo for (seborrhoea and yeast Malassezia) to keep the condition in check. Malaseb is an effective wash as is Pyoben, but it must be used on a regular basis. Some Frenchies, in my opinion, have a compromised immune system and this rather than a specific condition, could be the reason for some breed difficulties. A recent finding during allergy skin tests was that CATS can produce the highest allergic reaction recorded.

Prolonged soft palate and stenotic nares (pinched nostrils) can be present in certain Frenchies. They both impair breathing and can be present in combination. Difficulty breathing, wheezing are the superficial signs, particularly when exercised, excited or hot. This can put pressure on the airway and cause it to collapse (collapsing trachea) with the potential to cause the dogs demise. Surgical intervention is the only remedy and it should be undertaken earlier, rather than later, to prevent more serious long term damage. Frenchies with either condition should NOT be bred from. It should be understood that many good breathing Frenchies are able to flip their palate, allowing for a clear airway, whereas others with no longer a soft palate, unable to accomplish this, have breathing problems.

Thick ears, causing a narrow ear orifice. You must keep the ears clean and free from injury or infection. Scratching indicates a problem and left untreated a haematoma could result with the ear passageway being blocked off. Once air cannot circulate, the inner ear is a breeding ground for fungi and bacteria, with the only solution an ear resection. Wide, open ear orifices are as important as wide open nostrils. Select a pup with fine not thick ears and open ear canals

Generalised dog conditions can affect Frenchies as well as any other breed, but the above are the more notable, specific to the breed. Anaphylactic shock from bee stings can be life threatening and I suggest you carry an Antimine injection with you during the summer months. Ask your vet for this in the spring.

Hips are not generally great in Frenchies. Only about 5 in the whole world have ever been passed with an excellent rating, however minor discrepancies do not normally pose a problem as they are not a big heavy dog and as a dwarf breed are not built in the same way as a gun or working dog, meaning evaluation must be made in relation to the bulldog it is and cannot be compared to other well angulated breeds as the Frenchie is not one of them, neither is it supposed to be. This does not mean they are physically afflicted, nor should they be, but clinical evaluation may not identify perfection in this area.

HOT TIPS

June Hicks - WD Boxer Club. Australia

Heat stress usually occurs on a very hot day, or on a moderately hot day following several consecutive hot days. Heat gradually removes the body's reserves of sugar and salts, so that the longer a hot period lasts the sooner the heat stress can occur, and little extra heat is needed to set the heat stress off. Black dogs absorb more heat than lighter dogs as they do not reflect the light, but absorb it, so are more prone to heat stress. Dogs that exercise heavily in hot weather are particularly at risk. It may occur if a dog is in an area with restricted air circulation such as a closed car, crate, tent or trailer.

The dog's main ways of losing heat are:

Symptoms

The dog suffering heat loss is usually sluggish and reluctant to move. Respiration is very rapid and the mucous membranes (gums,conjunctiva) are blueish. The breathing is extremely laboured, there is usually litle salivation and ther dog may stagger, vomit or collapse. If the dog is not treated at this stage it will die.

Treatment

The first priority is to cool the dog fairly rapidly. The most important area to cool is the head and neck. The blood going to the brain must be cooled to prevent brain damage and to calm the respiration. Turn a tap full on to wet the dog thoroughly and keep the water running over him starting on the head and neck. If you have ice, place some on the bridge of the nose, very important with short nosed dogs, and on the sides of the neck. Keep the water flowing over the dog until respiration settles down. You can wet the dog's mouth, but don't expect him to drink too much as he may be incapable of swallowing, too much water can choke him.When he starts to breathe in a less laboured manner, turn off the tap and sponge him down with wet towels. Too rapid a drop can cause brain damage.As the respiration returns to normal, leave the dog sitting on a wet towel and give him a little water. Take the temperature once the respiration rate is reduced and keep cooling him until his temperature is between 39.5 and 39 degreesC.

Prevention of Heat Stress

Prevention is of course better than cure.

  1. Always ensure that your dogs have adequate shade and water. If he has to be left in a confined area ensure that: * Ventilation is more than adequate * Shade is available * Water is always available
  2. Puppies and older dogs are specially susceptible. If your dog is in either category you should always leave a wet towel or newspaper in their living area. If you freeze a large dish of water it can be left to gradually melt during the day. Leave a sprinkler going over a shed or direct a fan over the dog to stir the air. If using a fan with puppies make sure the fan is played over them and not on them.
  3. In hotter weather it is a good idea to give your dog electrolytes to help prevent heat stress. There are two very helpful additives, especially after several hot days. * Bi-carbonate of soda is the main salt that is lost and is therefore the most important to replace. Give large dogs one flat teaspoon daily (half to small size) in the food, double in very hot weather. Dogs do not like it in the water. * Electrolytes: various brands are available, the same dose as above.
  4. If travelling in hot weather, in addition to the salts or bi-carb always travel with plenty of ice and water, and if the dogs are at all distressed place them on wet towels. The dogs will cool quickest through the feet, belly and anus. Hot air rises, so do not cover them with wet towels. Remember: in these circumstances give plenty of shade, ventilation and water and a small amount of electrolyes and glucose.

Remember that heat stress can occur on a relatively mild day, especially if it has been hot for the previous days. Remember also it can kill. 

TYPE AND TEMPERAMENT

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

It has always been assumed that type is a developmental issue and certainly selection moves the breed in a certain direction, however what if the base lines were different to start with.

Having Frenchies from many parts of the world to develop our own type, it soon became obvious that pronounced variations in temperament, type and development, could be attributed to the areas of origin.

Certainly the English toy Bulldog was the base line, but what other components went into the breeds' development, and was there a variation in the breed's background, dependent on the area they evolved in. I certainly think so.

The Terrier bulldog was developed in more than one part of Europe, due to the Nottingham Lace workers looking for work with the best return and while numbers did go to France, others would have identified that Belgium, Holland, Germany and other parts of Europe also had lace industries where their skills would be sort after and appreciated. Loading all those skills in one area and competing with each other would have left them again with employment difficulties. The reason they left England in the first place.

Therefore it can be safe to assume that those intelligent enough to leave England in the first place, would have dispersed to ensure financial security. With them went their dogs. Apart from the variation in the dogs they took with them, it is obvious that the breed's development would be influenced by the breeds in the area to which they moved.

Good ratters were what were required and this would have been how they viewed the breed's development, not a cosmetic consideration. Look at the Terriers in different parts of Europe. The Affenpinscher in Germany, The Griffon in Belgium, not the breeds we acknowledge today, but the street dog predecessors of these breeds. Add in the Pug and many other local breed entities and you can see how the origins varied and why variation still occurs. The German type was identified as the best by European breeders of French Bulldogs and now most European lines carry those traits. England in isolation developed a variation on the theme, as did the Americans. Assuming that compatible breeds available to those early breeders existed in their part of the world, it is easy to see how differences continued to evolve. Over the years of course the importation and exporting of French Bulldogs has created a more uniform breed and blended those traits, but differences still exist due to their original background, which is why we have more bull doggy or terrierish types and everything in between. This also translates to temperament as well as form.

So the next time your Frenchie tears a rat apart while another lies there on the couch just looking at a mouse, or is an exhibitionist as opposed to the shrinking violet at home, it is possibly as much to do with its background, as the dog itself.

JUDGING THE FRENCH BULLDOG

C Jefferies (Chrishell Frenchies) International Judge for Non-Sporting and Toys. Specializing in Bulldogs and Pugs.

The immediate impression of a French Bulldog on entering the ring should be of a small, powerful dog, but above all else, perfectly in-balance. Alert with flexibility and mobility with a personality not always lending itself to the statuesque picture some breeds portray. Allow the Frenchie time to settle by moving it to the table.

When the dog is settled on the table, stand back and take an overall view. The Frenchie is a dog of sweeping curves, from the top line and the tuck-up to the curved under jaw. All parts of the dog flow together.

Approach the dog from the front, offering the back of your hand to scent. DO NOT excite the dog by being over friendly, as once stirred up they are impossible to judge accurately.

THE HEAD should be proportionately large in comparison with the rest of the dog. The term `massive', in the Standard, must be read, in conjunction, with the evenly balanced statement found in the `General Appearance'.

The points of the Standard in relation to the head and skull are quite descriptive and should be checked visually and manually. Feel for turn of under jaw, which must be curved, not straight. This can be confirmed when mouthing the dog, noting the curvature of teeth placement in the gums.

To mouth, hold the lips at their sides between first finger and thumb; roll the lip over the finger with the thumb, keeping clear of the dog's air passages. The ring finger can then be used to push down the lower lip, to identify a slightly undershot bite and regular teeth placement. If in doubt I insert my small finger in the gap between top and bottom jaw and providing contact is made on both sides of the finger the bite is acceptable. If the gap is greater than this, the jaw is tending to be too far undershot.

If the dog is un-cooperative while being mouthed, a finger check inside the mouth, will confirm most of the requirements. A visible lower lip gives correct expression when flush with the upper lip completely covering the teeth. In profile the turned up lower jaw, the nose & the forehead should be near to an angled back straight line of around 60 degrees not the 45 of the British.

THE EAR SET must be high, ears upright and rounded at the top, (bat ears), which are a unique feature of the breed and as such should receive due attention. The ears are elongated and should never be small. While a medium size is required in the standard, a dog with correct ear placement can give the impression of a larger ear. Ears are mobile, not rigid & are used to display emotions. It is fine to assess ear placement while on the table, but please do not try to evaluate carriage, as most Frenchies are not thrilled at being on the table and their ears express this. Assess ear carriage while on the ground, on the return from the out and back. The outer surfaces are upright while the inner aspects taper slightly outwards, being visually at 11- o- clock and 1- o- clock.

EYES are round and dark, set wide apart & low down in the skull., The French expression is lost if they are not.

PLEASE NOTE, the Standard states that pieds SHOULD have black eye lashes and eye rims (this is the ideal). The Fawn dog MUST have black eye rims and eye lashes.

A GOOD STOP creates a furrow between the eyes, but this must not extend onto the forehead.

These points combine to personify The French bulldog Expression.

Run your hands down the powerful well-arched neck. There is loose skin but not to excess (there should be no dewlap) and along to the withers, checking for moderate angulation at the shoulder and musculature, (nearer 60-70 degrees than the 45 degrees often identified as the lay back of shoulder in some breeds) Check for deep wide brisket, well rounded ribs, with good depth, short, strong, straight legs and relatively small compact feet that are well knuckled up.

THE BODY narrows from shoulders to loin, which is short. The length, withers to tail, is approximately equal to the height at the withers THUS, A COMPACT, BALANCED, SQUARE BODIED DOG.

The top line rises progressively from the withers to the level of the loin, and descends rapidly towards the tail (roach back). A low set short tail, and there should be a tail, positioned correctly cannot be carried above the level of the back. Straight or kinked tails are acceptable, but in length should not reach the groin area. And ideally should just cover the anal orifice.

The roach and tuck-up of the belly should follow similar lines. The longer hind legs raise the hindquarters, setting the loin above the height of the withers. Stifles are only moderately angulated. It should be noted that without a perceptible hock joint the dog is too straight of hock and also probably too straight in stifle, whereas a dog that requires stretching out to even out the top line is over angulated.

When moving a Frenchie, I prefer a triangle, and I am looking for parallel movement, fore and aft, with the hind legs visible between the front with the dog coming forward. Movement is described as fine in our standard. (Please note this is a New Zealand enigma and not a requirement of other standards,) This comprises of short, quick steps on the tips of the toes. Similar to a lady walking on very high heal shoes. The steep angulation of the pelvis restricts the normal drive from the hindquarters creating fine movement, but this is also a result of too straight a stifle and a more free movement is not a disadvantage. There is a balance between forequarters and hindquarters both contributing towards the dog's momentum. The required conformation can produce a skip step to synchronize front with rear, as there is a natural tendency to pace, due to roach back and longer hind legs. Changing to the correct gait can produce this shuffle step. It should not be pronounced and only evident occasionally when changing pace and must not be confused with a hop, which can indicate unsoundness. This statement is not to condone this action, just explain it.

There is a slight roll to the hindquarters, more a gentle sway, not near as exaggerated as the Bulldog. The movement is without strain or exertion, with smooth quick moving leg action. All parts coordinated. There is a swagger and arrogant air, portraying the self assurance which epitomizes a Frenchies presence in the ring. While this is the typical, ideal movement, a Frenchie that has more drive from the rear should still be in consideration, as it is the soundness of the hindquarters that are of prime importance. Feet however should not extend far behind; showing vast amounts of pad or the flying trot of the Gundog which is totally incorrect. A brisk walk is the best way of assessing a Frenchies gait accurately. When standing at a natural stance, the rump and the front surface of the rear pastern should be in a vertical line.

Just keep in mind that the French Bulldog was initially a small lap dog, and our standard calls for 24lb (10.9 kg.) bitch and 28lb (12.7 kgs) dog, but although soundness must not be sacrificed to smallness, this does not mean that the Frenchie should develop into a small British Bulldog.

Finally, Frenchies are not a head or front on breed and Judges should not request exhibits be set up as per a British. This immediately indicates to the exhibitor that breed knowledge is limited. The best over-all picture is obtained with an oblique stance, with left shoulder forward.

FRENCH BULLDOG PROFILE

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

A companion dog of the highest order, The French Bulldog with its easy care, short smooth coat, small, sturdy, compact structure, adaptability. Their desire to please & be part of the family, make it second to none as a pet for the discerning owner.

They are a robust dog with a mischievous side & clown like attitude. Colours are brindle & fawn, or white with patches of either of these colours (Pied), giving a choice, which would be attractive to most prospective owners.

The French were developed from the old English Toy Bulldog. A smaller 20lb version of the British Bulldog, which occurred naturally in some litters of British. These toy Bulldogs accompanied the lace workers of the Midlands, England to France during the Industrial Revolution. Crosses took place which produced the forerunner of the French Bulldog. Development of the breed by the Americans, who had taken a liking to this unusual dog, fixed the breed type which we recognize today as the French Bulldog.

They crave human affection & companionship & will not thrive without it. Children to play with are an added bonus. Frenchies will play all day or relax with their owner as the occasion warrants. They are not a kennel dog & if you object to sharing your home & your chair with your dog, then select another breed.

Frenchies do not over eat, but require a varied diet. They become bored with the same food & much prefer your roast dinner anyway. Two smaller meals per day are preferable to one large.

Frenchies house train quickly & easily, being clean in their habits. Their temperament does not usually lend itself towards obedience competition, although some have excelled themselves in this field. Agility on the other hand is just their forte’. Their mobility, enthusiasm & natural athletic ability lend itself to this activity. They are however independent thinkers & training is not all-smooth sailing.

Frenchies of 15years old are stilling pottering around with their owners, so they have the potential to live a long time.

Frenchies are not overly problematic in regard to health problems, however spinal abnormalities can be fatal & should be checked for, prior to purchase.

Prolonged soft palate & occasional dermatitis are lesser treatable occurrences.

Ears are susceptible to dirt & dust, requiring cleaning with a wash.

Firm direction may be required with some Frenchies. Some occasionally need to be reminded who is the boss. They are not a soft dog; do not be misled by their size. They will warn of strangers & some will defend their property & owners.

Frenchies are relatively expensive.

HEAT IS THE GREATEST THREAT TO A FRENCH. COOL & SHADE MUST BE AVAILABLE ALONG WITH WATER IN THE HEAT OF THE DAY. NEVER LEAVE A FRENCH UNATTENDED IN A VEHICLE.

REVERSE SNEEZE

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

This is a misnomer, for it has nothing to do with actual sneezing. However,it is a popular term for something that appears to be worse than it actually is. When this occurs, your dog will appear to be snorting or choking. The posture will be one of the neck extended with the chest expanded, as the dog struggles to take in air. The actual physiology is that the trachea has narrowed and the normal amount of air is not able to enter the lungs. The triggering mechanisms are usually excitement or stress. If this is happening to your dog, do not panic. You can help your dog by soothingly stroking the upper throat area to encourage relaxation and dilation of the trachea. If things do not resolve soon, and the dog is really having a continued hard time, you can try depressing the tongue to open up the oral cavity for the passage of much needed air into the lungs. The predisposition to this is thought to be hereditary, particularly in smaller breeds because of the decreased diameter of their tracheas. If your dog occasionally has this, do not worry that you need to be there to help each time it happens. A dog is able to come out of an attack of reverse sneezing without help and will not suffer permanent damage.

Reverse sneezing is a common phenomenon in dogs. In a regular sneeze, your dog pushes air out through the nose; however, in a reverse sneeze, air is pulled rapidly into the nose. During a reverse sneeze, your dog will make rapid and long inspirations, stand still with his elbows spread apart,extend his head, and his eyes may bulge. He'll make a loud snorting sound, which might make you think he has something caught in his throat. Each reverse sneezing episode generally lasts for one to two minutes.

The exact reasons for these episodes are unknown but may be related to allergies, nasal irritants or nasal inflammation. A reverse sneeze may look disturbing - many people fear that their dog is not breathing during these episodes - but it is not a harmful condition and there are no ill effects.

Reverse sneezing attacks are generally quite brief and not life threatening. An episode can be stopped if the dog is stimulated to swallow by either massaging the throat or briefly pinching off the nasal openings. Some dogs have reverse sneezing episodes so frequently that various medications may be needed to reduce the number of episodes.

Reverse sneeze syndrome is characterized by a series of rapid, loud, forced inhalations through the nostrils, lasting anywhere from 10 seconds to 2 minutes. Attacks occur on a sporadic, unpredictable basis. Dogs usually have the head extended forward and stand still during the episode with elbows turned out and sometimes with the back arched. Affected dogs appear completely normal before and after the attack. There is no loss of consciousness or collapse, though some times the appearance of the dog and the noise is upsetting to owners.

Many dogs have these attacks throughout their lives. The exact cause of reverse sneezing is unknown, but it may be associated with sinusitis, incomplete closure of naso-pharynx, and other upper respiratory disorders. Whatever, the cause, the condition is usually not serious.

Treatment is not necessary when episodes occur infrequently or on a random basis. To help your dog you may wish to try any of the following ideas: holding off both nostrils so the dog takes a breath through the mouth, blowing in the nose, or massaging the throat. All of these techniques are designed to stimulate a swallow reflex, which will help to stop the episode. 

INHERITANCE OF COAT COLOUR IN FRENCH BULLDOGS

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

The first thing that must be appreciated is that the French Bulldog is a FAWN dog, or at least its base colour is.

I have tried to keep things as simple as possible by not including the gene locus, which tends to confuse the issue. Instead the actual colour word has been identified without the gene code make up, so if you know what is dominant and what is recessive you should be able to work out what the potential outcomes are or determine how a certain feature eventuated.

Brindle is the dominant gene, which is a pattern, not a colour. It consists of black hair overlaying the fawn ground colour and its degree of intensity determines the visual perception, ranging from almost black, through light brindle, to a tiger stripe (sometimes incorrectly referred to as reverse brindle)

Reverse brindle terminology used correctly identifies an almost Black looking dog. Being dominant, once lost, it cannot be produced unless reintroduced.

Black mask fawn is the next in the series. Recessive to brindle, but dominant over pied. Frenchies of this colour, mated together, can only produce black mask fawn and fawn pied. (Fawn can be categorised as being from the palest cream to deep mahogany).

Pied is the lowest denominator with the extreme version producing an almost white dog? The pied gene actually inhibits the ability of colour to express itself as opposed to being a true whole colour in its own right and this gene is actually for white spotting with various degrees of intensity providing different effect. Now with pied, the brindle dominant, fawn recessive rule still applies.

Because of this pied gene in the breed, varying degrees of white can be displayed on a brindle or fawn Frenchie. From just a small white spot, to Irish spotting pattern with chest, muzzle, forehead, belly, feet and tip of tail, possibly displaying white, in some or all of these areas, however because this pattern is able to be modified by the gene for complete body pigment and the piebald spotting gene, smaller or greater areas of white may be displayed.

There are four genes in this series in order of dominance.

These are the basic colour genes, which determine the possible colour of pups from certain colour matings.

Other genes exist in certain lines, which are not always of benefit to the colour of the Frenchie;

An enigma exists with the American CREAM colour, as this defies the usual definitive colour outcomes of colour matings. It is possible that a number of different gene combinations can portray visually the same cream colour, but their genetic make up being different, causes different resulting colours in their off spring. i.e. cream / fawn / red / butterscotch.

It would appear that cream/ fawn (without mask) is due to a colour gene of a totally different series to that of the black mask fawn. Standing alone and not interacting with the fawn of the black mask series.

Hence to produce either recessive colour you must have two recessive genes of the same kind i.e. two BMF genes to produce black mask fawn and two cream/fawn genes to produce that also. Being a different series that do not interact, Cream/Fawns and BMFs can be produced in the same litter providing both parents carry the recessive gene for both colours. However pure Cream/Fawn X pure BMF will produce nothing but brindle as progeny only carry one of each colour gene and TWO of the same series are required to produce either colour. Cream and BMF suppress the brindle pattern being displayed, when in their double recessive form, hence only one of each allows brindle to manifest.

It should also be noted that American cream is also a dilute, possibly C ch and therefore does not always have the ability to produce jet black pigment as our black mask series does. This off black pigment, while dark, is a brownie black and not acceptable according to our standard. It is possible however for cream to have black pigment, when black mask fawn is carried recessively or it is of the E series of fawn and not the recessive e version.

IRISH SPOTTING

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

I think first that Irish spotting should be defined. The locations of white are muzzle, blaze ( star ) forehead, chest, belly & one or more feet, tail tip.

Because this is a recessive gene to solid colour, it can have its expression modified i.e. a white chest may sneak through, but other potential white areas are kept in check & are not displayed in the coat colour.

Most colour genes can & are modified depending on other genes present.

The series consists of:

Now any of this series can have its expression modified by other genes present. e.g. a white sw having a spot on one eye due to the influence of sp or s hd. An si, irish spotting not displaying all white points. Hope this gives you a general idea of why patterns are not exact & why people mistake one for the other. 

SELECTION TIPS

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

I have recently viewed a number of litters to assist in selection and the question was put to me how I come to a decision.

Thinking about it and going past initial eye appeal, I have a process which may help others. I have heard people say Oh! You can't pick this or that you have to wait months for them to develop. That's not really correct.

You have to be flexible, because factors can occur which alter placings, but if it's not in contention early on, it's unlikely to be in the final reckoning. The general balance of the pup is important, but you are looking for a little more of extremes in those early assessments, knowing that some features will even out as the pup develops.

Hence a large square head is a prime consideration. It needs to be square front on, but also looking down on it from above. If you are seeing a wedge, then the pup is unlikely to ever be in contention. You also want the width of muzzle to be almost as wide as across the skull. Forward projection of the nose to any degree identifies the pup may have too much muzzle. This must be tempered with the fact muzzle length reduces by half at maturity. Not in actuality, but in perception when the face fills in. So the width (not tapering) is greater importance.

Front on look where the nose is placed. If set too low, then you have a 2/3rd skull and 1/3rd muzzle effect. More likely to end up down faced, whereas the pup with the nose well up by the eyes is going to have a balanced head, skull to muzzle. Again upper and lower jaw should be wide and square off the whole head. You also need DEPTH. A shallow jaw will give a weak face appearance. Ear set or rather the width between the ears should be noted as are where the lower ear is attached to the head. It doesn't matter that they are not erect it's where they are placed and due consideration should be given to shape, size texture and length.

Eye shape and size can be assessed when eyes open between 5 - 10 days. This also then gives you expression to evaluate.

Body should be short as it will lengthen 4 - 6 months. There should be a neck, albeit short. If head sits on the shoulders, the pup will probably never develop sufficient length to get the desirable crest. A swan neck however will never be correct in adulthood.

From the contenders you then have to look at attitude. Some pups have this before two weeks of age. Others develop it weeks down the track. A dog lacking in personality is always going to be a struggle to campaign. Movement of course comes later, but a good front and true fore action is the earliest to be able to determine. Around 5-6 weeks. Look at the mobility agility of each individual. Rear movement is quite wide early on. (No hip development) but stability can be assessed as can potential angulation of stifle. Hip and shoulder angulation change as body grows, but where attached to gives a good guide particularly in shoulder placement.

If the bony prominence (Withers) is stuck up at the base of the neck you could be in trouble. Feet shape and padding need to be looked at and where the nails sit in relation to ground contact can be a useful guide.

I spend hours a day, just watching pups play and develop. This time spent is crucial, in making the right choices. Never kid yourself! You will have to compromise on certain things because no pup is perfect, so it is important you have set your own essentials prior to evaluation.

If it does not meet your criteria, it is unlikely it ever will, so move the pup on, unless specifically retained to retain the lines. Even so, if it's not up to a reasonable standard, then it may pay to let the line go rather than perpetrate second rate Frenchies.

Hope this is of help to some. 

CRITICAL LIFE STAGES

C Jefferies (Chrishell)

Birth to 7wks the critical period learning to accept discipline from their dam and to interact with their litter mates.

7-12wks the socialisation period.  At this age the dog is capable of learning anything, and its brain has the capacity of an adult dog.  This is a valuable period and should not be wasted.

8-16wks the fear period.  Things that a pup happily accepted before, may for a short time appear threatening and produce fear in the Puppy.  Recognise that this is just a stage and will pass.  Do not force the Puppy to confront the things he fears.  Just be calm and non fearful yourself; treat the thing the Puppy fears with distain and he will take his cue from you.  DO NOT OVER PROTECT OR DISPLAY TOO MUCH CONCERN

12-16wks.  This is the testing period when the Puppy decides whether he is No. 2 in your Family, or comes after all the other Family members as he should.Also called the age of cutting ...cutting teeth and cutting the apron strings. Puppies test pack leadership. Any biting should be discouraged even the leash. This is a good time to start training

4mths-8mths the flight instinct period.  This is the testing time when Puppy becomes deaf at convenient times when a puppy that previously would come will suddenly takes off in the opposite direction and refuse to obey. the puppy is trying to explore the world and "try its wings"

6mths-14mths the second fear period.  Your puppy may suddenly become terror stricken about something he has seen many times before.  This is illogical behaviour and like a child having a nightmare.  Just be calm and reassuring and avoid confrontation while the Puppy is unable to cope.

Sometime between 12-24mths the adolescence.

One to four years - Maturity this is when sexual maturity begins during this period there may be more dominant behaviour at this point 2 dogs that have grown up together may try to declare dominance over one another

ANAESTHESIA PROTOCOL

Lori Hunt, DVM

NEVER GIVE FRENCHIES: Ace promazine Pentobarbital aka Pentathol (injectable anaesthesia) Metofane (inhalant gas) Halothane (gas anaesthesia)

USE WITH CAUTION: Dormitor (reversible anaesthesia/sedative)

SATISFACTORY CHOICES FOR FRENCHIES: Ketamine (usually used in combo with valium as an injectable anaesthesia/sedative) Valium (see above) Torbutrol (analgesia)

OPTIMUM CHOICES: Propofol (injectable) with either of the following 2 gas anaesthetics as a maintenance: Isoflurane(aka IsoFlo) OR Sevoflurane (aka SevoFlo)

EXTRAS FOR C-SECTIONS: (This is in addition to the Optimum anaesthetic protocol listed above) Atropine given at induction Place the mom-to-be on IV fluids Oxytocin injections (usually one after all the pups are out and she begins sewing up the uterus and the second about 20-30 minutes later) Antibiotic injection post-op

INTUBATION vs. MASKING/CONING DOWN: EVERY brachycephalic dog that goes under anaesthesia should have an endotracheal tube (ET) placed in their trachea! Always! We need to protect that airway at all times.... The tube should be left in until they are VERY awake and about to chew it out... I use the intravenous propofol to induce anaesthesia (which puts them under) this gives me a few minutes to place the ET tube... then I connect them to either the sevo or iso... so they are always tubed...

Be Careful when masking a Frenchie down. Masking them down can sometimes be harder on brachycephalic dogs because they struggle to hold their breath (so they don't inhale the strange smelling gas) which can irritate the airways and deplete their oxygen levels (which you do not want before surgery). It is my opinion that using injectable and then tubing them gives them an optimum oxygen supply which is ideal for frenchies.  

A LETTER TO MY VET

Dr Janice Grebe

Hi! I'm a French Bulldog, and unless you are extremely lucky, you may not have any other patients of my rather rare breed. If that is the case, please let me alert you to some special health needs of Frenchies, as our friends call us.

Though our Minimum Daily Requirement for human companionship and love is high, our day-to-day needs are simple. Petting keeps our coat shiny; praise keeps us happy. The best medicine for a Frenchie is TLC. But we do have higher incidence of certain structural problems that go along with our-flat faced, dwarf status than do other breeds (the ones we think of as spindly and pointy-nosed).

As with other brachycephalic breeds, we have airways that are easily compromised. We overheat very easily, often have an elongated soft palate that may need to be shortened, and anything that causes swelling in the mouth or pharynx (trauma, insect stings, tonsillitis, etc.) can cause a respiratory emergency. Sometimes our nares are rather stenotic; this does, however, give us the most endearing snore. Cleft lip/palate, of course, is more frequent in short-faced breeds. And it has been suggested that we are more likely to have oddly-formed thyroids and anterior pituitaries, since the pharynx, from which these structures develop as outpocketings, is so abbreviated. Whether these glandular abnormalities cause any functional problem is uncertain, but it's worth considering if any problems are seen that could have an endocrine basis.

Anesthesia, of course, is a constant worry. Thanks to our laid-back attitude, many procedures requiring a general anesthetic in other, more excitable breeds can often be done without it in Frenchies. When a general is required, we are very hard to intubate; even more so than Bostons, we're told. First, please note that our necks tend to be rather squatty (no way to put it delicately). The endotracheal tube may have to be shorter than in a longer-necked dog of comparable size; if it is too long, it will end up in a bronchus and we'll only be half-ventilated. Also, we must be watched closely after extubation, until we are up and walking around, because our large tongues and/or floppy palates can easily relax and obstruct the airway. And any swelling in the pharynx or larynx, which is an ever-present danger with intubation, is doubly serious in our breed. With our generally calm nature, we may also require less anesthesia than other dogs of comparable size, as anesthetic depression can occur more easily in us than in, say, a Fox Terrier.

Probably our most important and serious built-in anatomical problems (other than the airway) are back problems caused by the chondrodystrophic dwarfism that gives us our distinctive shape. Like the other dwarf breeds, we suffer from a high incidence of hemivertebrae and premature disc degeneration. The incidence of the former in our breed is unknown, since many dogs that have these malformed vertebrae never have problems related to them, so that they are only detected incidentally on a radiograph done for some other reason. If they do occur, they are most often seen at T9 - T11; a single vertebra may be involved, or several. Depending on which part of the vertebra is malformed, they may cause scoliosis or kyphosis; and this can produce secondary changes in the rib cage.

Premature intervertebral disc degeneration most often is seen in 3- to 5-year old dogs and generally affects the discs between C2 - C4 and T11 - L2; disc degeneration seen as a consequence of age is more likely in the cervical region. If you should note any hemivertebrae, calcified discs, or narrowing of discs spaces on an x-ray, or palpate any bony deformities, please instruct my owner about how to best protect my back, and what neurological signs to watch for in case problems should develop. Many Frenchies are frisking happily about today after extensive spinal surgery, because their owners quickly sought help at the first sign of trouble, before the cord was permanently damaged.

As is the case with Bostons and Bulldogs, we often have whelping difficulties. Though some Frenchies are free whelpers, the combination of the big head and narrow pelvis often produces uterine inertia, requiring cesarean delivery. (Considering the anesthesia risk, this helps explain why there are so few of us around.) We also seem to be plagued by pyometra more often than other breeds; some believe that our odd construction tilts the female reproductive tract in such a way that it doesn't drain properly postpartum. Whatever the cause, this is a problem to watch for.

Impacted anal glands may also afflict us (especially if the screw tail torques sharply to one side and compresses a duct.) We may suffer from most of the other usual canine ills. Frenchies with lighter coat colors tend to have more skin problems than do the darker ones; this is particularly true in hot, damp climates, where every variety of fungus and bacterium tends to flourish. Though hip dysplasia is not known to be a major problem, it has been reported in the breed; whether it's inheritable or due to a random defect in Frenchies is not yet known.

Our breeders are constantly trying to produce sounder pups, and the French Bulldog Club of America is establishing a Genetics Committee to gather information about health problems in the breed that might be inheritable, serve as a liaison with the Canine Genetic Disease Information Service, and to help educate breeders about potential inheritable problems. We would appreciate your help in this regard. If you should detect any problem in a Frenchie patient that you believe is genetic, please discuss this with the owner and/or breeder of the dog so that we might avoid the spreading of harmful genes through the breed. Our gene pool is so small that a recessive gene in a popular sire could spread like wildfire; and early detection requires the help of our vets. Though there have been cases of clotting disorders in Frenchies, we have not yet seen the problems like the juvenile cataracts and copper toxicosis that have devastated other breeds, and we want to keep it that way.

We Frenchies are a proud lot, and are increasing in popularity. We would appreciate any new observations or information that you might give us about our breed to help our breeders and owners keep us sound and happy, both as a breed and as individuals.

And, finally, should the time come when . . . because of age, injury, or illness . . . my life should become more burden to me than blessing, please help my owner/friend make and accept the most loving and kind decision. Tell him to "Sing no sad songs for me," but to know that my life, however short or long, was an enviable one. I was a French Bulldog.

(Reprinted from The French Bullytin, Vol. 6 No. 4, 1988)  

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